New Zealand Fashion Designers and Design Schools
Fashion Designers and Schools of Fashion NZ
Fashion designers in New Zealand are gaining significant international attention - this article discusses who's who in NZ fashion, their style and influences, and the schools of fashion design in New Zealand.
The general style and influence behind New Zealand fashion is one that is quite defined.
First and foremost, New Zealand fashion design focuses on wearability. New Zealanders are known busybodies - who like comfortable, effortless style, rather than clothes that look great but you cannot move in. Fabrics are natural, where possible, to allow breathability. Buttons, zips, wraps, ties - all common features in NZ design that allow for a wearer to move and adjust throughout the day.
It is this focus on wearability that enhances another great Kiwi design trait - perfect tailoring. While New Zealand does not have a long ancestry of skilled seamstresses, designers pride themselves on expert attention to detail and fit. So much so, that you'd think a lot of what is produced here was made so meticulously until fingers start to bleed. Smaller production lines mean attention to the finest facets of garment making and quality assurance, and New Zealand designers certainly excel in creating a fastidious fit that will last.
There is one key influence that is apparent over almost all New Zealand design trends - vintage. Particularly leaning towards the 1940s-50s period, fashion design is seemingly fixated on drawing from inspirations from this era year after year. Whether it be flapper girl, housewife or a bohemian mixture of the two - you'll find range after range of kiwi designed clothes on catwalk models that has been influenced by vintage styles.
Who are the top New Zealand fashion designers, and how do they describe themselves?
- Andrea Moore - confident, 1950s-inspired with a hint of sly raciness. Signature colour of red.
- Annah Stretton - romantic, sensual and often oriental in flavour and colour.
- Barbara Lee - best known for her 14 year reign as designer of the Air New Zealand flight attendant uniforms, this label reached a turning point in the new millennium with a change to monochromatic haute couture for the high flying woman.
- Carlson - Hand painted fabrics, hand beading, unexpected construction. Intricate and structured designs.
- Caroline Moore - leather designs made from the finest New Zealand lambskins, defined by their comfort and cut.
- Trelise Cooper - luxurious, colourful and avante garde, even ethereal.
- Karen Walker - "high casual", one foot in tailoring, the other in street style - think the anti ‘it-girl': Annie Hall or Amelia Earhart.
- Kate Sylvester - ironic and feminine, made for those with a sense of humor about dressing up.
- NomD - dark, intellectual and wittily sombre. Communicative of New Zealand's landscape, from the charcoal of the roads to the ice of the mountains.
- Untouched World - everyday, natural woolen fabrics and organic cottons, dedicated to starve off southern chills with head-turning style.
- World - intense, often using clashing colour combos and eccentric fabrics such as plastic (definitely the most dissimilar to other Kiwi designers, verging closer to Australian and more international flavours).
- Zambesi - inspired by vintage cuts with innovative interpretations, and a gathering of different hues, textures and fabric weights.
What about Menswear?
While some of the above designers do have menswear ranges, there are few dedicated menswear designers in New Zealand. Adrian Hailwood, designer of Dunedin based label Hailwood believes this is because Kiwi men stick to their labels, they have a uniform of Levis or Ben Sherman and do not what to derail from their existing niche. While women take pride in wearing the latest new designer before anyone else, men find it hard to pay international prices for little-known brands.
Little Brother is an exception in New Zealand menswear design, whereby they have gone global owing to their roots in a tailoring tradition and retro (1970s and 80s) styling of a slim male silhouette. In terms of more affordable menswear designers, the only one to stand out from the crowd is Des Rusk for the chain Barkers, who has created a stylish line of street-inspired clothing for the professional Kiwi man, using unique fabrics such as bamboo and merino wool.
Where can I study fashion design in New Zealand?
New Zealand is very fortunate to have several fashion design schools dotted around the country - all of the courses tailored to your experience and industry interests.
- AUT - Auckland. Key course: Bachelor of Design in fashion - 3 years.
The first two years of this course are based on basic design theory and practice of developing and communicating design ideas. In the third year you can specialise in one of the following areas: apparel, costume or knitwear.
- UCOL - Wanganui. Key course: 1 year Diploma (for beginners) or 3 year Bachelor's degree in fashion.
The Bachelor's degree in fashion works towards providing students with a complete collection of work, professional design portfolio as well as manufacturing, buying, retail, marketing and consultancy skills. Also offers a fourth year honours course. Graduates include designers now working for Zambesi and Miss Crabb.
- Massey University - Wellington. Key course: Bachelor of Design - 4 years.
This four year course encompasses market and trend analysis, innovative and creative design of apparel, garment pattern making and prototyping skills, and the positioning of fashion products in the marketplace. Graduates include Kate Sylvester, Helen Cherry, Helen Ng.
- Design and Arts College - Christchurch. Key course: Diploma of Fashion Design - 2 years.
Aimed at preparing young designers for industry placement, this course is intended for students wanting to become designers and assistant designers or with interest in costuming, pattern making, production managing, styling, merchandising, fashion buying and retail.
- CPIT - Christchurch. Key course: Diploma in Fashion Design - 2 years.
Aimed at those with existing design and pattern making skills, this course will give you the opportunity to learn to run your own fashion workroom and produce computer-aided pattern designs.
- Otago Polytechnic - Dunedin. Key course: Bachelor of Design - 3 years.
Developed to reflect industry practice, this course includes advanced patternmaking, garment construction and developing a clear understanding of the holistic nature of designing products. Students have a chance to show their collections at the yearly Dunedin iD fashion week, a world-class fashion event for Otago designers.
Looking for more information? Find New Zealand fashion in the NZS.com directory.
Get published online by adding an article to the NZS.com Articles section. Before you add your article read over our guidelines for article creation and find out the benefits of publishing on NZS.com.
